Smells of Jordan: sun baked pine trees giving off their sap into the dry desert air, jasmine blossoms assaulting your nose as you step out of a car, odors wafting over a white-washed wall from somebody's kitchen that makes my mouth water. A breath of fresh air after Mumbai, India. We hit the ground running on day one. We were supposed to go to our hotel after landing at Amman at 8:00 but we talked Mohammad, our guide, into driving us into the desert to visit some historical forts, probably way stations for caravans, in the desert. If it says UNESCO World Heritage Site, we're there! Some tea and an impromptu Bedouin dance in a tent by the side of the road for a rest stop.
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